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Hawaii Surf: North Shore

Hawaii Surf History:

The exact origin of surfing is still unknown, although 2000 years ago the ancient Hawaiian Chiefs and Kanaka (common man) were "Hanging Ten" when the earliest visitors to the islands started to arrive.
anchient surfing

While these visitors to the Hawaii islands avoided the waves at all costs, the natives seemed to be using it as part of a recreational outlet.Only the high ranking Chiefs (ali'i) had access to the best surf spots. King Kamehameha himself was said to be a skilled and frequent surfer.


To take control of a breaking wave and actually ride it to the shore was called "he'e nalu", by the Early Hawaiians which translates to "wave sliding". Sunset Beach, the crown jewel of Hawaiian surfing sites, and the rest of the North Shore remained a secret known only to the locals for some time.

duke kahanamoku- waikiki   Surfing really took off in the early 1900s. Riding boards made mostly from hewn redwood and balsa wood.

Olympic swimmer Duke Kahanamoku (honored by a statue engraven in his image, picture on left) was a pioneer in the sport of surfing as he made it more popular, Duke is one of the all-time greatest athlete to come out of Hawaii and is known as the "Father of Surfing". Because of Duke, surfers from around the world were attracted to the Hawaii beaches of Waikiki and West O'ahu, yet unannounced to all, the North Shore still lay undiscovered and mysterious to those other then its homegrown.

It was in the early 1950's that surfing pioneer Greg Noll re-discovered along with his friends the beauty and power of surfing the North Shore, popular among the Californian surfers they flocked here in the winter to chance the monstrous waves.

Modern Hawaii Surf:

Today it is no secret that the North Shore has become the center point of surfing. Thru modern day video, television, and web streaming surfers from all over the world have witnessed the beauty and power that these Hawaiian sized waves produce.

Ask any surfer and he/she will tell you that the thrill and excitement they get from riding natures waves are just the same as any other eXtreme sport, and surfers are constantly seeking that natural high in every wave they take-off on. It is no wonder that if you want eXtreme in the sport of surfing then the North Shore of Hawaii is the place to be, Just ask the thousands of surfers that arrive here every year, or the 2 million plus visitors that trek out to the North Shore to spectate.


pipelines barrell


surfs up for everyone!

Winter Hawaiian Swells:

During the winter months (approximately November to January) the North Shore produces monstrous waves reaching heights of 20 feet and higher. This can prove dangerous for even the experienced waterman. Visitors are highly recommended to heed to warning signs on the beach and be cautious around the waterline.

waimea bay hawaii

During the winter months, these waves are not for the inexperienced swimmer or surfer, as waves can reach heights of 10 feet and higher while breaking over sharp reef, no more than a few feet from the surface. Banzai Pipeline is one of the many famous surf spots on the North Shore and constantly attracts popular surfing events.

 

Surf Competitions :

The North Shore's energy level picks up during the months of November through January with the onset of surf competitions. The weather's a bit cooler than summer, the surf is good, and the North Shore's legendary big waves draw an influx of visitors.

Hawaii winter surf season brings a steady increase of not just tourists, but people who come here to stay for up to three months, such as surfing contest participants and enthusiasts. Although there's more surfers it's not that bad because there's a variety of surf spots that span the North Shore.
Big winter surf

The Van's Triple Crown of Surfing and its prestige in the Association of Surfing Professionals Tour brings dozens of pros to the North Shore -- and their entourage of families, surfing buddies, photographers, surf magazine writers, agents, sponsors and groupies.
van surf competition

 

Surf Spots along the North Shore: The stretch of beaches along the North Shore is considered the longest stretch of rideable surf spots in the world. (see interactive map for surf spot locations).

VELZYLAND
FREDDYLAND
BACKYARDS
SUNSET BEACH
KAMMIELAND
ROCKY POINT
GAS CHAMBERS
TURKEY BAY
PUPUKEA
BACKDOOR
BANZAI PIPELINE
OFF THE WALL
LOG CABINS
WAIMEA BAY
ELEPHANTS
MARIJUANA
ALIGATOR ROCK
LEFT OVERS
CHUNS REEF
JOCKOS
OFF THE ROCKS
LANIAKEA
HIMALAYAS
PUAENA POINT
HALE'IWA BEACH
AVALANCHE
WALLS
SILVER CHANNEL
POLO GROUNDS
MOKULEIA
ARMY BEACH
KAENA POINT

*Purchase our Oahu Surfers Guide map for detailed info on each of the above surfing spots on the North Shore, along with other breaks on Oahu Purchase now>>

 

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